FROM PATTERN TO THE PERFECT PAIR

A good pair of boots lasts a lifetime. Because they’re designed to do exactly that. So, what goes into a pair of authentic, handmade boots? The steps haven’t changed over the years. With very good reason.

THE CHOICES

* Type of leather
* Toe and heel style
* Boot top design

THE PREP WORK

* Create paper patterns
* Cut the tops, lining, front and back stays
* Skive appropriate edges
* Assemble tops with cement, including beading
* Sew tops and pull-straps with inlays, overlays, and stitch patterns
* Cut the vamps and lining
* Stretch the vamps and lining over crimp boards
* Measure, trim and attach the vamps and foot linings to the tops
* Cut out the hard leather counter and counter cover
* Slit, fit, and cement the counter to the boot top
* Skive and cement the counter

THE CONSTRUCTION

* Sew the counter and the counter cover to the top, trim
* Cut, cement, and sew the side welt (piping)
* Rub the seams down flat
* Attach the pull-straps
* Turn the tops right side out
* Smooth the finish
* Nail the insole to the last
* Trim and shape the insole
* Cut the channel for welt
* Stretch the wet vamp and counter over the last
* Anchor with tacks
* Turn back the vamp leather and position the toe boxes
* Cement, dry and smooth the toe boxes
* Pull and anchor the vamp leather over the toe boxes
* Punch holes through the insole with awl
* Stitch inseaming thread through the welt and insole
* Trim and flatten the seam
* Sew in the shank, sew or peg around the heel
* Insert the steel shank
* Fill in the shank and bottom of insole with leather pieces
* Shape/grind the shank, then peg
* Trim the welt to the desired width
* Cement and trim the sole to the welt
* Sew and peg the soles
* Ink and finish the front of the sole
* Stack, cement and trim the layers of the heel leather
* Nail or peg the heels, and add the rubber heel cap
* Sand the heels to the final matching shape

THE FINISHING TOUCHES

* Ink the heel
* Polish the boot
* Pull the last out, sand the pegs inside the boot
* Insert the heel pad